Easy Rider

Top of the world

Moving here was absolutely the right thing to do. No question. Already racked up 4,000km in just a few weeks. Most days out and about - going nowhere in particular. It's been brilliant. Got me thinking:

Why do I love it so much?

A deceptively simple question. I think it mostly comes down to "being present".

When you're focused on motion, traction, lean angles, traffic, throttles, gears and brakes - the ego simply dissolves - no distractions - no anxiety - truly in the moment.

Present

Schopenhauer puts it like this: the present moment is the only true and actual reality, the past and future are mere conceptions lacking independent existence. The present alone possesses full reality and is the sole time in which our existence truly lies. Constantly striving towards an illusory future or longing for a past that no longer exists results in the present being overlooked and not enjoyed.

Schoppie nails it as usual. Most people spend their lives avoiding risk and discomfort, running dull routines that keep them safe. Riding forces you to a "flow state" I've only otherwise found in meditation or writing. The smells, sounds, wind, engine vibration, hills, trees, sky - all one formless reality unfolding in real time - kinda like green numbers dribbling down a screen.

PhuChiFa

Modern life shields us from consequence but a motorcycle reminds you with brutal clarity. That gut-punch feeling of terror as you approach a corner too quickly - a flash of truth - a reminder that life is fragile, fleeting, and completely in your hands. The thin line between life and death makes every action sharper, every moment more real.

Thrill

Maybe we're chasing adrenaline? But after it fades there's only focus, discipline and the laws of physics. Leaned over at speed, engine screaming, wind at your chest, there’s no room for overthinking. Just cause and effect. Action and consequence. Danger becomes a kind of peace. It humbles you. It strips away lies and reminds you that your choices matter.

So, motorcycles are dangerous, however, that's a feature, not a flaw. It’s what keeps you present. Life is emptier without that edge and once you’ve tasted that clarity - you can’t go back.

Luxury

Quite the upgrade. The room has a balcony, windows, fitted curtains, hot shower, large mirrors and a flushing toilet. These enhancements alone have me feeling like royalty. Add on the fact I opted to pay extra for a weekly clean and change of  bedding - and we have reached transcendental levels of comfort. I have to pinch myself to make sure I'm not dreaming. I purchased a fan ($25), a reclining chair ($20), an air purifier ($20) and a kettle ($10). There's even indoor parking. $173 all in. Class.

Why am I blathering on about a simple living space? Regular readers will know that I've mostly lived in what most would consider impoverished conditions, therefore, this transition is massive. Every automatic toilet flush brings a smile as I think back to scoopy-scoopies. Every 10 minute "hot" shower reminds me of "Hollywoods" on SSBNs - the nickname for the crime of enjoying a >1min shower (given fresh water was limited). Not anymore baby.

Scran

I miss cooking but enjoy eating out every meal. I no longer have to cook/wash but don't get to choose ingredients. Convenience up, quality down. There are no solutions only trade-offs.

Kon Akha

Fitness

Two months no exercise. Can feel the body atrophying in real time - strength leaking into the ether - entropy accelerating. In light of this I "Lazada-ed" push up handles. It's time to get active again. No gyms this time - just 4 exercises:

Push ups x15
Under table pull ups x8
Bodyweight squats x10
Skipping 2 mins
Repeat 3 times

Will start in January. 30 mins. In the room. No BS. A new regime for a year new - which also happens to mark 7 years off the piss and tabs.

Tabs

Wash

Speaking of tabs there's a couple of teenage lads in Mae Chan who do a great job of washing the bike - hence my repeat custom. They offered me a smoke as we sat chatting. I explained how I smoked for 30 years, from age 15 to 45, and how hard it was to stop. I urged them to quit now while it's easier but I could see they thought I was lame - the way I used to think of older people when I was their age. They see me as "boring". And they're correct. I chuckled inside.

It's interesting to sit with them for a while as the bike dries. I can somehow sense their youthful vigour, their unbounded energy. Raw. Unpolished. The kind of energy tyrants love to harness. I sit on the other side of the fence now. Almost 40 years of samsara between us.

"What're you smoking anyhow? They smell like shit" I joked.
"At-Lan-Taa - only 20bt a pack," they boasted.
"Only 20bt? But 20 x 365 x 30 - would likely buy the bike you just washed."
Bore off old man. Unspoken, but I could read their faces - haha.

I'll gift them a pack of "Atlanta" next time. Make 'em feel appreciated. Canny lads.

Budget

Costs have risen but not astronomically. The biggest change is hoying ~$15 of gas into the bike every 400km or so - but worth every satang. The room's gone from ~$90 to ~$170 but represents a massive upgrade. Food costs have actually declined. Rooms are around $15/night for longer trips. So adding it all up we're still rolling in under $1,000/month. Nee bother.

Trip

Nan - 640km

My first overnighter since 2019. A two night jaunt through Nan Province taking in the 1081 and 1148 - some of the best riding in Thailand - if not the world. Hit 186km/h (115mph in old money) where spacetime flashes by too quickly for my sensory/CPU system to render. 186 does indeed appear to be her top end - reminds of Star Trek - a cannae defy the laws of physics captain.

I love being the sole man riding through foreign lands. Anonymous. Like a ghost passing through. All the time in the world. Able to speak with enough fluency for benign encounters along the way. Maybe embellish a few life details each iteration? For a laugh.

More locally I enjoy runs to Phayao, PhuChiFa, Chiang Saen, Doi Pan Mee, Mae Selong, Phan, ThaTon and Doi Chang. It's all good man. Like Chiang Mai - but not Chiang Mai - not better not worse - just different.

On that note, a special shout out to the under-appreciated Thai civil engineers - the roads up here are fucking outstanding. Thank you. And to the Thai people - thank you for letting me stay. It's purely belta.